Ducati Multistretta 1098S

I am happy you are happy.

It helps having the right people to make your parts and modifications for you. That must provide the comfort you need.
 
Things I have learnt today.

The single black wire with a ring terminal on the end that I could not find on the 1098 wiring diagram and, as a result, I dismissed as unimportant and summarily chopped off and threw away is not as unimportant as I had thought...

Got the loom connected up to everything except the ECU and turned the ignition on and started testing all the lights, horn, dash etc. A minor snafu with the tail light connector, translating the 1098 harness to the Multi tail light assembly required the connector to be de-pinned and remade. But other than that all the smoke stayed in the wires and nothing went "ppffffzzzzzzzt".

Connected up the ECU and turned it on but the dash didn't go through the expected welcome message and the neutral light and oil pressure light didn't come on. Scrolling through the dash brought up "CANBUS 38.0" as an error message.

Quick bit of googling and it turns out a common cause of this message is the ECU 0V lead coming adrift. "What ECU 0V lead?" thinks I. "Aaaaaaaaah, that'll be the single black wire with the ring terminal....".

Good news is, with a jumper wire from the battery -ve terminal to the ECU body, the dash powers up with the correct welcome message and the oil pressure and neutral lights work and the throttle body stepper motor cycles. The even better news is there are no faults of any description on the dash so, fingers crossed, there's no other issues with the loom I've made.

Bad news is I've got to disconnect everything and take the loom off the bike and strip a chunk of it back so I can splice in the ECU 0V lead.

Bike is booked in with @Nelly for a week tomorrow for a final check and then, all being well, starting it for the first time.
 
It's safe to say the f**king thing is fighting me every inch of the last few yards....

Went to fit the custom throttle cables Venhill made, to my specification a few months ago, to the bike last weekend. The closing cable was spot on but the opening cable's inner was coming up too short. Don't know whether it was my specification or Venhill's manufacturing. Irrelevant now, so posted them back and luckily I was down near Venhill yesterday for work so was able to persuade them to do a rush job and let me pick them up.

Fitted them this afternoon and now the opening cable is, really, too long. With the adjuster wound all the way out it's just got the right amount of play at the throttle but whether I'll be able to take any slack out when the cable beds in is a worry. Anywho, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

With the air box in place and the ECU and injectors all connected up there were no faults logged on the dash so I thought I'd chance my arm and at least see if the engine would turn over. No fuel tank fitted and the coils disconnected and a press of the starter button...

Bugger!

Starter motor spins away but no engine roundy-round sounds and no "duff duff" from the exhaust.

Looks like the starter sprag is u/s.
 
Not sure now, unfortunately COVID has come a-calling and I tested positive this morning after starting to feel rough yesterday. If I don't get any worse than I feel right now I may take a look at it over the next few days, otherwise who knows?
Best of luck dude hopefully not too bad a dose!
 
Not sure now, unfortunately COVID has come a-calling and I tested positive this morning after starting to feel rough yesterday. If I don't get any worse than I feel right now I may take a look at it over the next few days, otherwise who knows?
Hope you will be ok soon, do you know who gifted it to you? Could think of better presents !
 
Not sure now, unfortunately COVID has come a-calling and I tested positive this morning after starting to feel rough yesterday. If I don't get any worse than I feel right now I may take a look at it over the next few days, otherwise who knows?
Hope you will be ok soon, do you know who gifted it to you? Could think of better presents !
It wasn’t me 😂
 
I 'ent ded yet.

Feeling loads better than I was, akin to having a head cold now but my mental capacity is definitely running slow.

Engine is all back together and fluid tight, turning over on the button with no faults logged on the dash. It's turning over slowly, but with brand new hi-comp pistons I'm not expecting - even with the Shorai lithium battery being in tip top condition- it to spin over vigorously.

It's ready to try starting it for real, but 'cos I'm still isolating I can't go out and get some fuel. Although I may be naughty and nip out tonight to the local garage that has automated pumps and fill a jerry can with some super unleaded....
 
It's not having it right now.

Turning over slowly with occasional pop and rumble like it's trying to catch but no joy on starting. My hunch is the starter motor is drawing too much current and dragging the battery voltage down so fuel pressure and spark are poor. Starter motor might be the culprit given its age/unknown provenance, I suspect it's a combination of less than optimum starter motor and battery (which is over 4 years old and has been unused for the last 3 years) and the hi-comp pistons and new rings causing a lot of load but I don't want to try starting it any more - risking sprag damage - until @Nelly has taken a look at it.

So it's over to him next week.

Stay tuned....
 
Quick question; anyone with a 1098 tell me where the earth strap is attached to the crank cases? One possibility is a poor -ve connection on the engine, I've gone to a handy bolt on the front cylinder but this may be too high resistance for the starter motor and that's what's causing the slow turn over....
 
Try a direct cable from the battery negative, to the external screw securing the starter motor to the case. That’s the most direct to the motor and the engine. Front cylinder can be insulated by gaskets etc.
 
So, courtesy of our very own @Exige a new lead between the battery -ve and starter motor bolt (as suggested by @Nelly) is fitted. I also ditched the fuel in the tank as, although it was bought fresh from a local garage, I had my doubts about it as it had no smell whatsoever and replaced it with 20 litres of Sainsbury's finest super unleaded. I also hooked up a set of jump leads to a spare battery I had knocking around and after a good dozen starting attempts....


It now starts on the button. HAVE IT!

I'm going to buy a new battery, just to be on the safe side, and it definitely needs some dyno time but there you have it; a running 1098 engine'd Multistrada.
 
Chuffed for you chap. You've put more time, love and cash into that bike project than most would. It's been an enjoyable thread to read too (y)
 
Working my way through the outstanding jobs and snagging all the little niggles that come to light with a bike like this; fans are working now, coolant leaks all stopped, heated grip controller mounted on the bars.

I've actually ridden it a couple of times now. Only 20 foot up the drive to put it on the road so the garage doesn't fill with exhaust fumes as I give the engine some heat cycles...

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Starting to wonder what power it'll make on the dyno when Chris has finished with it. 150 bhp would be nice.....
 
Took the opportunity to fit the bodywork...

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...all good other than one glitch, the right hand side panel cracked the filler/paint where the radiator cap is hard up against the inside of the panel.

Not the end of the world and won't hold anything up. When my ban comes through I'll get the paintshop to sort it out, but until then a black sharpie will hide most of it.
 
I had a 749 that had its headstock cut off and replaced at a different angle.

Everything was in component form at one point. It's who does the modifications and the standard to which it is done.

For the insurers not to ask for an engineers report for the work done surprises me. I am amazed that they took on such an unknown liability.

Not to undermine the work you have completed.

I would be looking to submit one just to cover yourself.

Having a mate who's bike killed someone on the road and the devastating effect on all involved, being totally legal and fully covered was one of the saving graces for him.

His bike was impounded for years and inspected.
a mate? :eek:
 
Mille

On the first page you mention you had bought an 1100s which would have come with ohlins and then you mentioned after the dealer was unable to fix issues, you got the bike back and with Nelly's help and the multistrada forums, got it up and running and just right.

Now with the 1098s lump in, have you had to make any further upgrades to the existing suspension and brakes, if so what did you end up doing?
 
Mille

On the first page you mention you had bought an 1100s which would have come with ohlins and then you mentioned after the dealer was unable to fix issues, you got the bike back and with Nelly's help and the multistrada forums, got it up and running and just right.

Now with the 1098s lump in, have you had to make any further upgrades to the existing suspension and brakes, if so what did you end up doing?

The front brakes were already upgraded with a set of calipers from a 999 and weren't lacking in power when combined with SBS HH pads, I don't foresee a need to do any more and, being honest, I'm not sure what more I can do without causing loads of agro; for example, a radial master cylinder might be good, but the handguards only fit the OEM levers. Better discs might be nice, but they're not available to fit the multi front wheel so that would mean a different front wheel as well.

There's a slightly stiffer rear spring in the back now, to counter what I imagine will be a more pronounced squat when the throttle is opened, and the steering damper is probably the most essential, I believe, handling upgrade made.
 
if you wanted to try some to see if they fit I can send a pair up to you.
The RCS probably won't fit but the OEM radials might as they're cranked to avoid clocks and clear the switchgears on roadbikes.
 
if you wanted to try some to see if they fit I can send a pair up to you.
The RCS probably won't fit but the OEM radials might as they're cranked to avoid clocks and clear the switchgears on roadbikes.
That's a kind offer mate, the problem is the handguards attach to the OEM master cylinder lever pivot bolt. So if I change the master cylinder then it means either junking the exceptionally bling carbon fibre handguards or trying to find handguards that are as equally gaudy AND fit the new m/c.

I think, at the moment, it's a solution looking for a problem, as the brakes were plenty good enough before I started down the road to madness.

But if you happen to see a headline in the Derbyshire local papers along the lines of "Ashbourne man leaves motorbike shaped hole in Peak District dry stone wall" then you know I was wrong...
 
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