Panigale V4 2020 new bike and mods.

I also as mentioned earlier routed the pipe to the calliper around the rear of the SA like the RS bikes do... after eliminating the crap steel mix pipe right by the wheel

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Whilst im still not done with the swing arm I thought id add in a few bits of info

All V4 inc R seat height was 830mm... the SL is 835 and the Sp is now 835

the std V4 inc the R have a wheel base of 1471
the new V4 SP has a wheelbase of 1469
the Superleggera has a wheelbase of. 1480 (plus it has a carbon fibre swing arm)

go figure why they listed the new SP as having that shorter wheel base? and 2mm?? and the SL has a listed wheel base of 9mm more.....plus neither still have no adjustment to take into account the rear eccentric.

The SL is different to the other versions with a different link rather than the cheap shit strips of metal...No 9 and its going to one mount point which would be half the battle of making the adjustments a single tie rod..


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Interestingly it appears the way forward with the V4 swing arm is longer so much so that Pierobon already do a service of lengthening the std arm a whopping
35mm! for around 4000 euros I heard plus the JHP tax!

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Yet it still seems to me that with the extra leverage of 35mm the picture above still has the std shit metal dog bones.....though I can't tell if they are a diffferent length even so they are still solid with no adjustment! so adjust your chain and what fit another length of shit metal or leave it.....how accurate is that?

and interestingly No 10 the rocker is a different part to the previous v4 one I just can't understand why they have gone to those lengths of manufacturing and not accommodated an adjustment/compensation.
 
still not finished playing with wheel base length and so on.
Looking at sprockets and ratios its interesting to notethat

V4 and S have 16 41 as a F/R combo a ratio of 2.56
the R has 15 42 F/R a ratio of 2.8
the SP is 16 41
the SL is 15 42

big difference....but different engine characteristics

the gearbox ratios are the same and the primary drive ratios are the same...

So with the std 114 length chain correctly adjusted it sits the eccentric right at the lowest Ride height portion...
you have to add chain links in pairs... so to 116 ..but then you don't have enough rotation on the eccentric to a) adjust the chain correctly and b) have any room left for further adjustment.

So some combinations of sprockets and ratios

16 41 2.56
16 42 2.625
16 43 2.68
16 44 2.75 (still not quite up there with the R)

15 42 2.8
15 41 2.73
15 40 2.66

So im waiting on a 15t front sprocket to see if that can put my wheel back further than the 16t which it will.

New sprocket arrived...

So ive settled at 15 41 and of course the 42 as per the R will fit too...
15 41 has given me the wheel base as per the SL 1480mm the gear ratio is at 2.73 so not quite so revvy as the 2.8 R ratio but a bit more alive than the std 2.56
`All the combination of different sprockets, longer wheel base would of meant that without the tie rods in there my rear ride height would of risen nearly 10mm from where it was with std sprockets. With the adjustable tie rods I can readjust the ride height to maintain a constant height where I want it and even when I readjust the chain ie rotate the eccentric further back I can readjust back to my constant! (y) :unsure:
 
I am impressed with the attention to detail Andy, I don’t think I ride on the edge enough to notice these small, but obviously important, observations and changes you have made. This bike, presumably, is solely for track use ?
 
You do realise after all this fucking about you're gonna stack it on your first sighting lap 😆

Seriously though, very nice job (y)
 
So version 2 on the rear tie rod mod... these have no spherical bearing as you don't need it, so are much slimmer, need less width,Ti nuts bolts and washers.. and look better Imho
Dare I say they blend in as though they have always been there,,,

IMG_5264.webp
 
Andyb said:
Another trinket I forgot...to replace the expensive headlight Std switch a bikesport developments Gucci one...that needs the electricity block you can see in pic 2 to work....View attachment 7020View attachment 7021
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Andy, I’ve bought the Ducabike ‘plug and play’ control switches either side of handle bars.

It said 10 minutes to fit!! In the blurb.... 10 hours more like. Does the battery box have to come out?? Looks a bit of a chew. Obviously panels and tank have to come off....
 
Mary Hinge said:
Andy, I’ve bought the Ducabike ‘plug and play’ control switches either side of handle bars.

It said 10 minutes to fit!! In the blurb.... 10 hours more like. Does the battery box have to come out?? Looks a bit of a chew. Obviously panels and tank have to come off....
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sorry only just seen this.......if they are the same as mine no no need to remove tank or battery....I bet im too late for you!!!

the std switches are a bit quirky in that the loom connect straight into the start stop there's one end for your new switch to connect to..
 
Andyb said:
sorry only just seen this.......if they are the same as mine no no need to remove tank or battery....I bet im too late for you!!!

the std switches are a bit quirky in that the loom connect straight into the start stop there's one end for your new switch to connect to..
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Ha, yeah your too late but not by much. 36 hours maybe. Thanks anyway : - )

I went to see Neil at Cornerspeed and he showed me.... aaarrghhhh!!!! I’d had my bike apart looking for the wiring route.... ah well....
 
Looks good andy, can I ask? Does the race bike have carbon brakes? and if so, is that something you have thought of or ruled out?
 
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