Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
Topbox
Well-known member
Getting a CNC program and setting it on a Miller more time consuming than getting good a hand tool and ploughing it out. It's only clearance after all.Not being technically gifted on engines can I ask? Certianly looking at the left side of the chamber where it's been expanded it looks a bit dog rough. Is that because that chamber doesn't need to be ultra smooth and all it needed was to be wider?
TB
YesNot being technically gifted on engines can I ask? Certianly looking at the left side of the chamber where it's been expanded it looks a bit dog rough. Is that because that chamber doesn't need to be ultra smooth and all it needed was to be wider?
Last shim swapped, all in spec now - fitted the cam guide into the Cam Cover, and APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner and the Cam Cover is now on.
I used shallow head Stainless Cap Bolts as they look posherererer but had to saw 5mm off everyone of them apart from the 4 outer ones which are a tad short, so just ordered 4 60mm ones to replace.
I used shallow head Stainless Cap Bolts as they look posherererer but had to saw 5mm off everyone of them apart from the 4 outer ones which are a tad short, so just ordered 4 60mm ones to replace.
Looking good is the bracket for the fairing or stabilizers
Everclear won't be riding it, fairing of course
What is that spring holding in place ? It looks like nothing as the exhaust header is bolted to the cylinder head. Also, won’t the plastic Shoei is on it melt
Are you isolating the fairing in. someway, won’t the engine vibration crack it or craze the paintEverclear won't be riding it, fairing of course
No need it will be safe in the kitchenAre you going to fit a tracking device in case it leaves the shed
No, I’ll be sat on it like all the other bikes I ride, get a bike, stop your frustrationAre you going to fit a tracking device in case it leaves the shed
Get a non pink bike, stop your frustration
It’s holding the exhaust onView attachment 61585
What is that spring holding in place ? It looks like nothing as the exhaust header is bolted to the cylinder head. Also, won’t the plastic Shoei is on it melt
Tube is high temp silicone
View attachment 61585
What is that spring holding in place ? It looks like nothing as the exhaust header is bolted to the cylinder head. Also, won’t the plastic Shoei is on it melt
Here you go...
You're such aComing along nicely Exi, at least you're making progress unlike me at the moment !!
Blackadder
Well-known member
This is all mighty impressive stuff, lovin it…..
Loosely fitted my new generator assembly after reducing the M12 Bolt that fixes the centre to the end of the crank due to the smaller stack height. All fits as it should thankfully with not too much head scratching. Starter Clutch housing assembled apart from the new rollers / plungers & springs which will go in on final assembly.
Haven't torqued anything yet of fitted gaskets as the Manual says the Starter Clutch Gears have to come off prior to fitting the starter motor (I'm sure that's not the case but better to be safe).
The CNC case needs a bit of polishing anyway and I need to change the supplied Allen heads on the cone for my favoured stainless low head cap screws.
Haven't torqued anything yet of fitted gaskets as the Manual says the Starter Clutch Gears have to come off prior to fitting the starter motor (I'm sure that's not the case but better to be safe).
The CNC case needs a bit of polishing anyway and I need to change the supplied Allen heads on the cone for my favoured stainless low head cap screws.
Starter Motor Rebuild Kit arrived and fitted / tested - it cleaned up well apart from the two long M5 Screws and I couldn't find any part threaded replacements anywhere the correct length,
Decided on some 5mm ID Brass Tube to cover the original ones, found some with 0.5mm wall on Ebay which was ideal and that arrived today. The gap between the end castings was 86.00mm so I sawed the tube to near 87mm and gently filed until it was 86.02mm to allow the screws to fully compress the assembly...
Now fitted to the Engine and very happy with the result
Decided on some 5mm ID Brass Tube to cover the original ones, found some with 0.5mm wall on Ebay which was ideal and that arrived today. The gap between the end castings was 86.00mm so I sawed the tube to near 87mm and gently filed until it was 86.02mm to allow the screws to fully compress the assembly...
Now fitted to the Engine and very happy with the result
You see Boobies in everythingCan you remind us of exactly where you got your alternator cover.....
View attachment 62063
Presumably they came as a pair so you have a spare....
but I did see that too tbf
It will be a cool day when that day arrives and I dig my tassled jacket and Simpson Helmet out
next year will be paint and electrics then out on it's 40th Birthday I think
It's a 'Recreation' sillyGiven your views on older bikes with modern upgrades, would you say your build is, a bitsa,modded, or hybrid
they are not my views, it's the way of the world you have asked this before Perry 2 