Wonky alert !![]()
Deffo, the one on the left looks like a ski slope
Wonky alert !![]()
Within 0.1mm - iPhone wide angle lens distorting, you've seen my method - use it next time when mounting your sockets Wonky Birthday BoyLive by the sword, die by the sword @Noobie
But @Exige is that wonky at lining things up and a sword is straight, so replace 'sword' with 'cutlass'Arrrrgggghhhh!
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Within 0.1mm - iPhone wide angle lens distorting, you've seen my method - use it next time when mounting your sockets Wonky Birthday Boy![]()
Camera angle dumboIf it's the wide angle lenses fault, how comes the right side is straight![]()
Very thorough@West Cork Paul - paint test complete.
I dropped a splodge of oil and a splodge of petrol on the test piece and left it overnight.
Wiped off and the oil hasn't touched it - the petrol on first sight looked OK too but when in the light it has dulled the surface.
I did a cross hatch paint adhesion test with half the block which was untouched as a control.
All 3 areas of the test piece passed with flying colours so the petrol didn't impregnate the body of the paint in the time it was on there (and it had evaporated anyway so longer wouldn't have been any more detrimental.
Conclusion: it's oil resistant / proof but only mildly petrol resistant so don't splash petrol on it
Oil & Petrol in the square sections...
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After leaving overnight and wiping off...
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Petrol 'stain' can be seen in the reflected light...
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Cross Hatch adhesion prior to test...
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Tape after test...
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All paint squares intact following test...
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We had people at work do adhesion tests, but I watched once.....Very thorough![]()
Did you measure the 0.1 mm with a 12" ruleCamera angle dumboboth within 0.1mm
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We had people at work do adhesion tests, but I watched once.....![]()
Mitutoyo Vernier CallipersDid you measure the 0.1 mm with a 12" rule![]()
Shut it paint test peasantWe do it daily as part of the Paint shop audit and on any recoats.
You've a few holes in your process, but I couldn't be bothered.It's my birthday, I've finished my model and I'm feeling benevolent.
Oh, I like you, sort of, a little bit, but not much, truth be told.
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Shut it paint test peasant![]()
Exi what year is the motor? I have an 83 ZX motor and it has shim under bucket, I believe all kwaker air cooled GPZ IL4's were of the shim under bucket. HTH matey.Time to turn my attention to the engine as I need to drop the frame over the engine to marry it safely with no damage. The engine needs the head on before lifting the frame over - only cam cover access is available when in the frame. So I can't really start the final assembly until the engine is in.
Started stripping the cylinder head (which is a Stage 5 Pro Stock Head all machined out for the larger valves and Stage 5 Cam Shaft lobe clearance.)
Dumped the old Nitrous Foggers - need to blank the holes off somehow. Managed to free an engine stud witch was stuck in a cylinder head nut and turned itself out of the crank case. One of the Cam Chain Tensioners is fubar and I also need to source an oversize base gasket (it's 1260cc with much larger liners). I have a new oversize copper head gasket but just found out it's 1mm too small and suites an 1197cc bore.
Shims are under bucket - I'm sure this is a mod from when NCK initially built the engine to stop shims spitting out at high revs
I have just given up on removing the valves / springs and collets as my Valve Spring Compressor doesn't 'compress' enougheven though it works fine on Z1 heads. I will need to rig up an extension block to sit on the valve head and some how manipulate the compressor with 2 hands when it will be a three hand job
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'84 GPz1100 Uni-track, I think you are correct regarding '83 onwards, it's the earlier '81 / '82 GPZ1100 that had shims on top as all earlier Z's if this clip from an MCN article on the Uni-Track is correct...Exi what year is the motor? I have an 83 ZX motor and it has shim under bucket, I believe all kwaker air cooled GPZ IL4's were of the shim under bucket. HTH matey.![]()
That's the ones mucker, I remember having fun back in the day, doing the shims with the engine still in frame, measure clearences, cams out, buckets and shims out, micrometer out, bit of arithmetic, order new shims, wait an eternity and rebuild. JOY!!'84 GPz1100 Uni-track, I think you are correct regarding '83 onwards, it's the earlier '81 / '82 GPZ1100 that had shims on top as all earlier Z's if this clip from an MCN article on the Uni-Track is correct...
The new A1 also gained a further power boost by using revised camshafts (including, for the first time on a big Kawasaki, the valve shims now under the buckets)
High and low speed compression damping plus remote pre load adjuster plus the bespoke mods.Shocks Away!
Just dropped the rear shock off at my local Ohlin's Specialist and he's going to see if he can get a 10mm longer shaft from Nitron to fit and also reduce the mahoosive Bump Stop to gain more wheel travel.
I also dropped off all the info needed to calculate the required spring rate, bike dry weight, front to rear weight differential, rider weight (Svelte) shock angle to work out the Angle Correction Factor (on it's centre adjustment)..... spring colour will be Graphite Grey.
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Usually take the 2 Stroke thereHigh and low speed compression damping plus remote pre load adjuster plus the bespoke mods.
You really do take riding to Sherburn cafe seriously.
TB
He was in SwedenYou should sent this off weeks ago...
Ffs.He was in Swedenand I didn't send it, I took it as he's only 2 miles away
If it's project planning you're after, the swing arm isn't ready yet![]()
I'm timing it for free road tax in 2 years timeFfs.
Don't you fancy riding the thing before you're in a wooden box?
Plus Blue Badge parking.I'm timing it for free road tax in 2 years timethings are moving on now
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That would be a bonus, all money saving ideas welcomePlus Blue Badge parking.
Get a bike, you will be far less frustratedHow much sag does the shock need to sit in the shed![]()
See, even thinking about it helps