Blackadder
Well-known member
I going dizzy here
Loving the colour……copper bronze ??
Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
Aged Copper it's called
Might that be a consequence of the paint in the rattle can not being mixed thoroughly due to less/more shaking one day compared to t’other, different temperatures causing the paint spray to be a different viscosity or things like that. Was it the same can or a different one? If the latter was it the same batch? You can see there’s a difference I fleck between right & left as well. However, as you say, you’ll never notice it when they’re on the bikeDid my other fork bottom today, exactly the same process / temperatures and it came out lighter
Might re mask it tomorrow and see what another coat does! But at least they aren’t seen together if it doesn’t darken
View attachment 36125
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Yeh, I noticed the damper units were lighter out of can and can 1 seemed to get darker for the fork bottom. I always pre warm and shake and rattle and roll for 5 mins although it says 1 minute on the can - but there was probably a gloopy bit not mixed. Can 2 did the other lighter fork bottom and bottom yoke. So I have just masked the darker fork bottom to give it a couple more light coats from can 2Might that be a consequence of the paint in the rattle can not being mixed thoroughly due to less/more shaking one day compared to t’other, different temperatures causing the paint spray to be a different viscosity or things like that. Was it the same can or a different one? If the latter was it the same batch? You can see there’s a difference I fleck between right & left as well. However, as you say, you’ll never notice it when they’re on the bike
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A cunning plan.Can 2 did the other lighter fork bottom and bottom yoke. So I have just masked the darker fork bottom to give it a couple more light coats from can 2
I now have matching fork bottoms 
And I have rubbed down & sprayed the damping adjuster nuts too - it will be a bit more delicate than an anodised finish but if I tape them before fitting a spanner (or find a plastic spanner) they should be OK.
And I have rubbed down & sprayed the damping adjuster nuts too - it will be a bit more delicate than an anodised finish but if I tape them before fitting a spanner (or find a plastic spanner) they should be OK.
How perfectly appropriate!Aged Copper it's called
YesIs this done yet?
just waiting on the fork tubes and sliders and I can re assemble them 
Yes
So, that would be 'No' then.
It’s lots of little projects like your little projectSo, that would be 'No' then.
Now go put your wheel stickers on
It’s lots of little projects like your little project
Now go put your wheel stickers on
It's mahoosive.
Did you gave this wired up, running and riding before the strip down?
No, the engine isn't built yet, but there wasn't really any need to get it running on the dry build phases - it was just to get clearances and everything fitting correctly.
Don’t be silly, he’s waiting for help with the electrics
@PerryL on your visit to York can you pop in to exi’s and help him with the electronics
AnonymousUser1
Elite Member
I'll look forward to it!
Time to turn my attention to the engine as I need to drop the frame over the engine to marry it safely with no damage. The engine needs the head on before lifting the frame over - only cam cover access is available when in the frame. So I can't really start the final assembly until the engine is in.
Started stripping the cylinder head (which is a Stage 5 Pro Stock Head all machined out for the larger valves and Stage 5 Cam Shaft lobe clearance.)
Dumped the old Nitrous Foggers - need to blank the holes off somehow. Managed to free an engine stud witch was stuck in a cylinder head nut and turned itself out of the crank case. One of the Cam Chain Tensioners is fubar and I also need to source an oversize base gasket (it's 1260cc with much larger liners). I have a new oversize copper head gasket but just found out it's 1mm too small and suites an 1197cc bore.
Shims are under bucket - I'm sure this is a mod from when NCK initially built the engine to stop shims spitting out at high revs
I have just given up on removing the valves / springs and collets as my Valve Spring Compressor doesn't 'compress' enough
even though it works fine on Z1 heads. I will need to rig up an extension block to sit on the valve head and some how manipulate the compressor with 2 hands when it will be a three hand job
Started stripping the cylinder head (which is a Stage 5 Pro Stock Head all machined out for the larger valves and Stage 5 Cam Shaft lobe clearance.)
Dumped the old Nitrous Foggers - need to blank the holes off somehow. Managed to free an engine stud witch was stuck in a cylinder head nut and turned itself out of the crank case. One of the Cam Chain Tensioners is fubar and I also need to source an oversize base gasket (it's 1260cc with much larger liners). I have a new oversize copper head gasket but just found out it's 1mm too small and suites an 1197cc bore.
Shims are under bucket - I'm sure this is a mod from when NCK initially built the engine to stop shims spitting out at high revs
I have just given up on removing the valves / springs and collets as my Valve Spring Compressor doesn't 'compress' enough
even though it works fine on Z1 heads. I will need to rig up an extension block to sit on the valve head and some how manipulate the compressor with 2 hands when it will be a three hand job
@West Cork Paul - paint test complete.
I dropped a splodge of oil and a splodge of petrol on the test piece and left it overnight.
Wiped off and the oil hasn't touched it - the petrol on first sight looked OK too but when in the light it has dulled the surface.
I did a cross hatch paint adhesion test with half the block which was untouched as a control.
All 3 areas of the test piece passed with flying colours so the petrol didn't impregnate the body of the paint in the time it was on there (and it had evaporated anyway so longer wouldn't have been any more detrimental).
Conclusion: it's oil resistant / proof but only mildly petrol resistant so don't splash petrol on it
Oil & Petrol in the square sections...
After leaving overnight and wiping off...
Petrol 'stain' can be seen in the reflected light...
Cross Hatch adhesion prior to test...
Tape after test...
All paint squares intact following test...
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Sort your nails out you Guinness FFS dude!!@West Cork Paul - paint test complete.
I dropped a splodge of oil and a splodge of petrol on the test piece and left it overnight.
Wiped off and the oil hasn't touched it - the petrol on first sight looked OK too but when in the light it has dulled the surface.
I did a cross hatch paint adhesion test with half the block which was untouched as a control.
All 3 areas of the test piece passed with flying colours so the petrol didn't impregnate the body of the paint in the time it was on there (and it had evaporated anyway so longer wouldn't have been any more detrimental.
Conclusion: it's oil resistant / proof but only mildly petrol resistant so don't splash petrol on it
Oil & Petrol in the square sections...
View attachment 36815
After leaving overnight and wiping off...
View attachment 36816
Petrol 'stain' can be seen in the reflected light...
View attachment 36817
Cross Hatch adhesion prior to test...
View attachment 36818
Tape after test...
View attachment 36819
All paint squares intact following test...
View attachment 36820
Managed to modify the vale spring compressor and stripped the head this morning, there's some serious amounts of metal missing, no wonder this engine was so poky even without the Nitrous 
The valve are huge too and stainless which is nice. A good clean up is now required...
The valve are huge too and stainless which is nice. A good clean up is now required...
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Stickers are on, used a tape edge to get them bang on but the camera has made them look wonky
View attachment 36825
View attachment 36826
View attachment 36827
Wonky alert !
Wonky alert !
Yes indeed, it’s within 0.1mmCan't we put it down to "camera angle" ?
@West Cork Paul - paint test complete.
I dropped a splodge of oil and a splodge of petrol on the test piece and left it overnight.
Wiped off and the oil hasn't touched it - the petrol on first sight looked OK too but when in the light it has dulled the surface.
I did a cross hatch paint adhesion test with half the block which was untouched as a control.
All 3 areas of the test piece passed with flying colours so the petrol didn't impregnate the body of the paint in the time it was on there (and it had evaporated anyway so longer wouldn't have been any more detrimental.
Conclusion: it's oil resistant / proof but only mildly petrol resistant so don't splash petrol on it
Oil & Petrol in the square sections...
View attachment 36815
After leaving overnight and wiping off...
View attachment 36816
Petrol 'stain' can be seen in the reflected light...
View attachment 36817
Cross Hatch adhesion prior to test...
View attachment 36818
Tape after test...
View attachment 36819
All paint squares intact following test...
View attachment 36820
I can see the problem. Some daft twat keeps drawing on your frshly painted items.
