Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
Hello picture whoreNot everyone's a picture whore.
Finished stripping the damping assemblies and removed the fork bottoms today.
These model forks have a penchant for cracking if the pinch bolts are over tightened so I was nervous of how to hold them to turn - I took the safe route and used hardwood clamps. I've seen the axle used to turn them but was nervous of this method so although a bit Heath Robinson it was a much safer method. Ohlin's do a tool to clamp and turn the stanchion while the bottoms are in a vice, this was a similar but reversed method.
After applying heat the first one took a good bit of effort to crack the thread lock free, the second I nearly fell over as it just span freely after heating, clearly there had been no thread lock applied at the factory on this one
These model forks have a penchant for cracking if the pinch bolts are over tightened so I was nervous of how to hold them to turn - I took the safe route and used hardwood clamps. I've seen the axle used to turn them but was nervous of this method so although a bit Heath Robinson it was a much safer method. Ohlin's do a tool to clamp and turn the stanchion while the bottoms are in a vice, this was a similar but reversed method.
After applying heat the first one took a good bit of effort to crack the thread lock free, the second I nearly fell over as it just span freely after heating, clearly there had been no thread lock applied at the factory on this one
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I wouldn't expect anything lessActually. I'll do a build therad.
If I don't vote for myself I will be voting for a Ducati as it's a Ducati forum even though Kawasaki's are betterererererI see Exi's trying to boost interest now there's an award in the offing !!
I might however bolt a bit on somewhere within the next week
Fork stations and Tubes wrapped - taking them to Brookes Suspension tomorrow for re-nitride and anodising.
I was going to take the Fork Bottoms too for cerakote but decided to paint them and the bottom yoke to match - too much hassle if they ever get damaged / chipped so paint will be a better option. They will be either Copper or Bronze when I find a suitable paint.
I was going to take the Fork Bottoms too for cerakote but decided to paint them and the bottom yoke to match - too much hassle if they ever get damaged / chipped so paint will be a better option. They will be either Copper or Bronze when I find a suitable paint.
My shock line aluminium separators arrived today, they are well cute 
Thought I may have to change the line lengths but they routed well - so the shock just needs a new lighter spring now and a smaller bump stop to gain a bit more rear wheel travel - it's going to my local Ohlin's Specialist to be calculated some where near for now - new spring will be Titanium Black.
Thought I may have to change the line lengths but they routed well - so the shock just needs a new lighter spring now and a smaller bump stop to gain a bit more rear wheel travel - it's going to my local Ohlin's Specialist to be calculated some where near for now - new spring will be Titanium Black.
Dirty Leeds
Elite Member
Mate our grandchildren won’t see that finishedHave you not finished this yet?
Are they too short too
Bought some paint today to do a test for the fork bottoms and bottom yoke - decide to paint the rebound damper bodies rather than a test piece. With the black anodised fork tubes and re done gold nitride stanchions I think it's just what I was looking for. I wanted a bronze colour but all I could find seemed a little dark, so went for an Aged Brass colour (Rust-Oleum Metallic @ £10 a tin from Dunhelm but £17 in B&Q).
Cleaned with Harpic 10X, rubbed down with 400 wet & dry and then isopropanol wipes prior to the first coat.
Couldn't spray in the garages due to overspray so with it being mild outside (10 degrees C) I warmed them in the oven to about 30 degrees and warmed the spray can too, stuck a hammer handle in the bore to hand hold it, then sprayed 3 coats within 5 mins of each other in the rear garden - straight into the oven in between.
The spray performs better than any rattle can I've used before and although I didn't try it, it can be used in all orientations due to it's special nozzle.
When done they both went in the oven at 80 degrees C for 30 mins - hopefully it will be good for adhesion Happy with the result
Cleaned with Harpic 10X, rubbed down with 400 wet & dry and then isopropanol wipes prior to the first coat.
Couldn't spray in the garages due to overspray so with it being mild outside (10 degrees C) I warmed them in the oven to about 30 degrees and warmed the spray can too, stuck a hammer handle in the bore to hand hold it, then sprayed 3 coats within 5 mins of each other in the rear garden - straight into the oven in between.
The spray performs better than any rattle can I've used before and although I didn't try it, it can be used in all orientations due to it's special nozzle.
When done they both went in the oven at 80 degrees C for 30 mins - hopefully it will be good for adhesion
Happy with the result
Bought some paint today to do a test for the fork bottoms and bottom yoke - decide to paint the rebound damper bodies rather than a test piece. With the black anodised fork tubes and re done gold nitride stanchions I think it's just what I was looking for. I wanted a bronze colour but all I could find seemed a little dark, so went for an Aged Brass colour (Rust-Oleum Metallic @ £10 a tin from Dunhelm but £17 in B&Q).
Cleaned with Harpic 10X, rubbed down with 400 wet & dry and then isopropanol wipes prior to the first coat.
Couldn't spray in the garages due to overspray so with it being mild outside (10 degrees C) I warmed them in the oven to about 30 degrees and warmed the spray can too, stuck a hammer handle in the bore to hand hold it, then sprayed 3 coats within 5 mins of each other in the rear garden - straight into the oven in between.
The spray performs better than any rattle can I've used before and although I didn't try it, it can be used in all orientations due to it's special nozzle.
When done they both went in the oven at 80 degrees C for 30 mins - hopefully it will be good for adhesion
View attachment 35689
Is this still going?
I don't live darn sarth so have no idea what you are on abootRob, why's exi talking about Pegging?
but I'm guessing you're being dirty 
Are you going to apply a lacquer?Bought some paint today to do a test for the fork bottoms and bottom yoke - decide to paint the rebound damper bodies rather than a test piece. With the black anodised fork tubes and re done gold nitride stanchions I think it's just what I was looking for. I wanted a bronze colour but all I could find seemed a little dark, so went for an Aged Brass colour (Rust-Oleum Metallic @ £10 a tin from Dunhelm but £17 in B&Q).
Cleaned with Harpic 10X, rubbed down with 400 wet & dry and then isopropanol wipes prior to the first coat.
Couldn't spray in the garages due to overspray so with it being mild outside (10 degrees C) I warmed them in the oven to about 30 degrees and warmed the spray can too, stuck a hammer handle in the bore to hand hold it, then sprayed 3 coats within 5 mins of each other in the rear garden - straight into the oven in between.
The spray performs better than any rattle can I've used before and although I didn't try it, it can be used in all orientations due to it's special nozzle.
When done they both went in the oven at 80 degrees C for 30 mins - hopefully it will be good for adhesion
View attachment 35689
No, it's a one coat system and supposedly good on flexibility and impact - I went this route instead on Cerakote as it's easy to touch up if it gets a stone chip.
Topbox
Well-known member
Bought some paint today to do a test for the fork bottoms and bottom yoke - decide to paint the rebound damper bodies rather than a test piece. With the black anodised fork tubes and re done gold nitride stanchions I think it's just what I was looking for. I wanted a bronze colour but all I could find seemed a little dark, so went for an Aged Brass colour (Rust-Oleum Metallic @ £10 a tin from Dunhelm but £17 in B&Q).
Cleaned with Harpic 10X, rubbed down with 400 wet & dry and then isopropanol wipes prior to the first coat.
Couldn't spray in the garages due to overspray so with it being mild outside (10 degrees C) I warmed them in the oven to about 30 degrees and warmed the spray can too, stuck a hammer handle in the bore to hand hold it, then sprayed 3 coats within 5 mins of each other in the rear garden - straight into the oven in between.
The spray performs better than any rattle can I've used before and although I didn't try it, it can be used in all orientations due to it's special nozzle.
When done they both went in the oven at 80 degrees C for 30 mins - hopefully it will be good for adhesion
View attachment 35689
Rebound damping at the bottom of road forks is unusual?
TB
Is it petrol/oil proof? Sometimes they need an oil solvent proof lacquer over them.
It only needs to be Mr Sheen proof.
Not had to adjust them yet funnily enough
most have Comp and Rebound on the top now on different legs but yes Comp is on the bottom usually ta!