I was looking to put sensors inside the tank, to measure water temperature.
Heating / hot water controllers
- Thread starter Alan Williams
- Start date
If you get the sensor on the tank skin and insulate over you effectively get that
Yeah. I’m not sure it’s worth the hassle.
Also doesn’t look like the insulation can be removed without damaging it.
Fingers crossed the wiser system will give me enough info.
Thermal losses from the domestic hot water system are a bit of a surprise!.
We had a new hot water tank installed a few years ago when the boiler was replaced, went for a solar tank so two heating coils installed (one from the boiler, one for solar) as the incremental cost was minimal. Had the solar bit fitted 18 months ago so the tank is now peppered with control thermocouples, with outputs displayed on the control panel.
Overnight heat loss from the tank was far in excess of the 1.49 kW/24h quoted by the manufacturer, and conclude that this loss was from heat conduction along the copper pipes to and from the tank, which although well lagged around the cylinder, just radiate the conducted heat under the floorboards where the pipes aren't lagged.
Not a big problem when the house needs heating, but just highlights the thermal losses and associated cost with current energy pricing if you use the boiler/immersion heater to heat domestic water during periods when your heating is off, you're heating a house that doesn't need it and may actually have benefit from cooling!
We had a new hot water tank installed a few years ago when the boiler was replaced, went for a solar tank so two heating coils installed (one from the boiler, one for solar) as the incremental cost was minimal. Had the solar bit fitted 18 months ago so the tank is now peppered with control thermocouples, with outputs displayed on the control panel.
Overnight heat loss from the tank was far in excess of the 1.49 kW/24h quoted by the manufacturer, and conclude that this loss was from heat conduction along the copper pipes to and from the tank, which although well lagged around the cylinder, just radiate the conducted heat under the floorboards where the pipes aren't lagged.
Not a big problem when the house needs heating, but just highlights the thermal losses and associated cost with current energy pricing if you use the boiler/immersion heater to heat domestic water during periods when your heating is off, you're heating a house that doesn't need it and may actually have benefit from cooling!
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We've circulating hot water.... the losses through the associated pipe work are enough to keep the boiler on about 10% modulation.
So in the summer that is off.... trying to use routines in alexa with smart switches to keep a happy compromise. I've purchased a new pump with 264 on/offs per 24 hours... but the fittings are different so it's still in he box... for now.
Have you considered Fischer Future Heat?
Yes... pure snake oil... 'The fool doth think he is wise, but the wise man knows himself to be a fool.'
The.dunnster
Well-known member
So the hive trv’s have been installed for a couple of weeks now. All in all happy with the kit and how it works and hoping it will allow me to reduce fuel bills not heating empty parts of the house.
It was not a simple 20 minute job and for anyone thinking about it, here’s a quick review….
The kits were easy enough to attach to old trv’s and came with fitting options for the diff types of trv. If there isn’t a trv on the radiator then the system will need draining to fit one.
Setting up needed connecting each trv to the hive mesh Wi-Fi and calibrating the trv. This proved easy for most of them but three kept failing to connect or dropping signal. These were some, but not all of the furthest from the hive Wi-Fi box. I purchased a hive booster and seems to be working ok so far, although took a few attempts for the trv to connect. This process takes an hour or two as the rad has to cool first and then come up to heat whilst it calibrates.
Hive tech support were busy when I tried them and their ai tool pointed me to a q&a sheet to confirm if a booster was needed.
The hive app is really easy to configure. You need to switch to boost on demand from each trv and then set schedules for each. It allows you to clone schedules from one day across the week to keep it simple to manage.
Will need to check the next few bills to see if or how much difference they have made so fingers crossed in the mean time.
It was not a simple 20 minute job and for anyone thinking about it, here’s a quick review….
The kits were easy enough to attach to old trv’s and came with fitting options for the diff types of trv. If there isn’t a trv on the radiator then the system will need draining to fit one.
Setting up needed connecting each trv to the hive mesh Wi-Fi and calibrating the trv. This proved easy for most of them but three kept failing to connect or dropping signal. These were some, but not all of the furthest from the hive Wi-Fi box. I purchased a hive booster and seems to be working ok so far, although took a few attempts for the trv to connect. This process takes an hour or two as the rad has to cool first and then come up to heat whilst it calibrates.
Hive tech support were busy when I tried them and their ai tool pointed me to a q&a sheet to confirm if a booster was needed.
The hive app is really easy to configure. You need to switch to boost on demand from each trv and then set schedules for each. It allows you to clone schedules from one day across the week to keep it simple to manage.
Will need to check the next few bills to see if or how much difference they have made so fingers crossed in the mean time.