Dead Diavel.

Gimlet said:
All done and appears to be back to normal. Removing hands free/kill switch block is a piece of cake. No special tools required, just a long thin allen key.

Tried taking the old block apart to see what's in there. Got the two halves split but there a tiny screw to release the inner workings which I can't get to with the jeweller's screwdrivers that I've got. But it looks like there is absolutely zero in the way of sealing or water proofing. Seems crazy to me that you'd put delicate pcbs in upward facing motorcycle switchgear without out any kind of protection to keep them dry.
I'm glad mine isn't a tourer that gets ridden in all weathers otherwise I'd be riding with my heart in my mouth waiting for the bike to die every time I got caught in the rain.
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Do you think you`ll keep it a while now or has the damage been done as far as ownership is concerned ?
 
Dukesox said:
Do you think you`ll keep it a while now or has the damage been done as far as ownership is concerned ?
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I'll see how it goes. If it was an unexplained electronic gremlin that took expensive ongoing diagnostics at a dealer I'd probably have got it fixed and got rid. As it was straightforward water damage that should be avoidable in the future I'll give it a second chance. I had a Ford Ranger pickup back along that had one electronic issue after another. Once I'd got it fixed and all the warning lights out after about the fifth episode I stopped driving it and it went straight on Auto Trader. I'm not going through that again with a bike.
 
Gimlet said:
I'll see how it goes. If it was an unexplained electronic gremlin that took expensive ongoing diagnostics at a dealer I'd probably have got it fixed and got rid. As it was straightforward water damage that should be avoidable in the future I'll give it a second chance. I had a Ford Ranger pickup back along that had one electronic issue after another. Once I'd got it fixed and all the warning lights out after about the fifth episode I stopped driving it and it went straight on Auto Trader. I'm not going through that again with a bike.
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You should have taken the opportunity to fill the new switch assembly with grease and drill a small drain hole in the bottom 😁🤣
 
Would something like Barkbusters handguards offer some protection without looking out of place? there are plenty of daivel hand guard options around

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Took the rest of the switch block apart. As expected, a pcb for every switch and not even an attempt at any sort of seal to keep water out. Might as well have the bare wires on the bars.
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Stanford said:
You should see inside the left hand switch gear of a G/RS - just the same except many more to go wrong.
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The mechanic I spoke to at the dealership, which is also a BMW franchise, did say that they see more water damaged electronic problems with BMWs than Ducatis.
Seems extraordinary to me that with interlinked canbus systems heavily reliant on pcbs, manufacturers either can't manage or can't be bothered to make highly exposed components like switchgear waterproof.

Maybe that's why @Exige bought a Honda.... 👀
 
Gimlet said:
The mechanic I spoke to at the dealership, which is also a BMW franchise, did say that they see more water damaged electronic problems with BMWs than Ducatis.
Seems extraordinary to me that with interlinked canbus systems heavily reliant on pcbs, manufacturers either can't manage or can't be bothered to make highly exposed components like switchgear waterproof.

Maybe that's why @Exige bought a Honda.... 👀
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My mate (who owns ASL Motorcycle) did say Honda switch gear never goes wrong and all others are shit - he however has just bought a GS.......... 👀
 
Defibf said:
Could be worth using dielectric grease to prevent/reduce water ingress
It’s commonly used in car electrics
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When the old one failed I tried spraying ptfe water dispersant in to dry it out and it made things worse with starting and stopping becoming even more erratic. So I'm a bit wary of getting any sort liquid in it. But if the grease is thick and will stay on the outside and help protect the gaps and joints it might be worth a try.
 
Gimlet said:
When the old one failed I tried spraying ptfe water dispersant in to dry it out and it made things worse with starting and stopping becoming even more erratic. So I'm a bit wary of getting any sort liquid in it. But if the grease is thick and will stay on the outside and help protect the gaps and joints it might be worth a try.
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Ptfe would act as an insulator
But perfectly understand your viewpoint 👍
I tend to use brake cleaner to disperse water, make sure everything is switched off first as it’s obviously highly flammable
 
Defibf said:
Ptfe would act as an insulator
But perfectly understand your viewpoint 👍
I tend to use brake cleaner to disperse water, make sure everything is switched off first as it’s obviously highly flammable
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It’s a joke that the switchgear is not at all waterproofed
I am of the opinion that Ducati electrics are every bit as rubbish as they were 40 yrs ago
 
Defibf said:
Ptfe would act as an insulator
But perfectly understand your viewpoint 👍
I tend to use brake cleaner to disperse water, make sure everything is switched off first as it’s obviously highly flammable
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I used contact cleaner after the ptfe spray, which I'm pretty sure is just isopropryl alcohol. But I guess the damage was already done.
 
I use ACF50 on all my bikes after every wash. Wash, dry with a hot air bike dryer, fire up and drive every last drop of moisture out then apply an all-over misting of ACF50 with a compressor and paint gun. Done it for years. My KTM 1190 still looks mint after 60,000 miles. Never had any problems with it whatsoever in all that time. Mechanically and electronically it's been 100% faultless..
 
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