head set

Scotty

Scotty

New member
can i take the headset bearings out without the correct tool ? a peg spanner or sumit ?

and there's no reverse thread malarkey around there is there ?

im struggeling and the bearing shop shuts at 12 today :comp2:
 
Scotty said:
can i take the headset bearings out without the correct tool ? a peg spanner or sumit ?

and there's no reverse thread malarkey around there is there ?

im struggeling and the bearing shop shuts at 12 today :comp2:
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You can easily knock the outers from the frame with a long drift but getting the inner off the bottom yoke stem can be a bit tricky. It's best done using a bearing puller with extensions on the arms. Getting a wedge under the bearing to get it started sometimes works but not very often. I've also heard of people using an electric welder to crack the bearing with heat so that it falls off.
 
humm ive given up on that one and left it soaking in 'wd40 a like'

and on to fork oil

having drained oil i was going to just put some new in but whilst its almost in pieces is there anything else i should look for / check

oh and why do fork lube related products smell so bad ~:?
 
Scotty said:
humm ive given up on that one and left it soaking in 'wd40 a like'

and on to fork oil

having drained oil i was going to just put some new in but whilst its almost in pieces is there anything else i should look for / check

oh and why do fork lube related products smell so bad ~:?
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If there is a lot of miles on the bike you may want to do the seals and bushes.
In the Tech section there is a link to how to (by me) on changing the fork oil. I think there is also another link to a complete overhaul of the Showa forks.
 
hummm think il be setteling for just an oil change without any dismanteling

cycling the fork upside down seems to have got all the oil out ~:? well theres no damping effect any more and it just kinda spluters residue rather than squirting oil about

il have to grow that 3rd arm for next time i guess
 
Derek said:
You can easily knock the outers from the frame with a long drift but getting the inner off the bottom yoke stem can be a bit tricky. It's best done using a bearing puller with extensions on the arms. Getting a wedge under the bearing to get it started sometimes works but not very often. I've also heard of people using an electric welder to crack the bearing with heat so that it falls off.
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the "bottom bearing inner" off the bottom stem we call the "crown race" in MTB forks. A good get you out of the mire weeze and less risky than the welding trick is to carefully abrade through the race with an angle grinder, maybe on opposite sides, it'll just fall off when ready if you do it with the yokes upside down.
 
humm i havent even got that far, has nayone got the special tool to take the top cap off with ? that i could maybe borrow

uh and anyone any idea what to torque the fork top caps back up to or is it just nip em tight ?
 
Scotty said:
humm i havent even got that far, has nayone got the special tool to take the top cap off with ? that i could maybe borrow

uh and anyone any idea what to torque the fork top caps back up to or is it just nip em tight ?
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I had a look in the manual and can't find a torque spec for the fork top nuts. Just nip them up and they should be fine. They don't need to be desperately tight, they are alloy with a fine thread.
I have a plan for making a steering head nut tool somewhere but haven't got round to making one yet. I can email you the plan if you want.
 
umm im just about to make/bodge a better one or i might see if i cant borrow one from local dealer but id suspect not

i guess idealy id just file bits out of a socket
 
hummmm fork question now

to get the same amount of rebound damping from each fork leg ive got a different number of clicks on the adjusters
there 6 different

this sounds oh so bad in my head im inclined to leave it different

is this a sign that something is wrong inside somewhere ?
 
Scotty said:
hummmm fork question now

to get the same amount of rebound damping from each fork leg ive got a different number of clicks on the adjusters
there 6 different

this sounds oh so bad in my head im inclined to leave it different

is this a sign that something is wrong inside somewhere ?
Click to expand...

Before fitting the fork caps screw each adjuster down 14 clicks then fit the caps so that they are lightly screwd all the way down then tighten the locknuts. You should then have full travel and equal adjustment on each fork leg.
 
humm i never actually dismantaled the forks that far

and more hummm, cyclying the fork action on maxiumum and minimum rebound seems to have majiked it all to the same effectivness

was it all just my imagination ~:?
 
Scotty said:
humm i never actually dismantaled the forks that far

and more hummm, cyclying the fork action on maxiumum and minimum rebound seems to have majiked it all to the same effectivness

was it all just my imagination ~:?
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Ah! I think I understand now. It wasn't the range of clicks on each leg that was different. It was the amount of damping on each leg that was different. By pumping them up and down a few time you have probably just worked all the air out of the damper cartridges ans they are now working properly.
 
Give belly @ Shoxx a call cos it sounds as if you are going to turn it into a rigid as per American chipper...Outlaw cycles ya bass!!:comp2:
 
if i had any spare cash at all this is what id be doing , though id be kinda worried that the price they quote might be for Each for leg

oh and had to order head set bearings tonight they were £28+vat Each
 
on a quest for information again

when i tighten headset up is it to 20 nm then slacken it by 30 degrees ?

the only instructions ive found are either for other bikes or in german/french

hummm bet your all on Arren :(
 
Scotty said:
on a quest for information again

when i tighten headset up is it to 20 nm then slacken it by 30 degrees ?

the only instructions ive found are either for other bikes or in german/french

hummm bet your all on Arren :(
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For the ST4, which has virtually the same frame, the manual says "tighten to the specified torque" which is 23Nm. It says nothing about backing it off, although I have heard that mentioned elsewhere.
Have you considered replacing the crap cup and cone ballrace bearings with taper rollers? The bearing is a Koyo 32907 JR-2. B & C Express do a 32907 JR-3 at £10.81 each. I'm not sure what the difference is between the 2 bearings but I think they should be dimensionally the same. It might be worth asking them.
 
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