Ducati Diagnostic Software - FREE
- Thread starter chrisw
- Start date
chrisw
Elite Member
To connect to the M3C ECU you will need an ELM327 diagnosic connector, either USB or Bluetooth, and a DDA adaptor. The DDA adaptor can be bought here Home - Lonelec
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chrisw
Elite Member
Punch
New member
I know this thread is old, but things have moved on.
I have written a guide to ScanST and other software required and more, but can't upload the pdf here, maybe too big, but it works on ducati.ms
This is based on ScanST310, but there is now 311
If any one wants it email me at yellowducati at me dot com
I have had to remove heaps of stuff from what I wanted to post as this forum/site seems to forbid almost everything, so just email me as above and i will send the guide and link to ScanST311.
Punch
New member
Thanks - all I was getting was an error message without that in the possible reasons explanation.
Below is Punch's guide to Scan ST logging and modifying
View attachment 11352
View attachment 11352
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Full tank of gas so thought I could get the TPS voltage for a quick check from ScanST but on FINALLY remembering how to connect it all and get it working, I find throttle is given in Deg and not Mv as I expected?
Download shows 1.9 to 85° of rotation, which at the bottom end I dont think is a million miles out for my ST4s.
However do any of you really clever bods know of a way to change to Mv, Ive seen screen shots of the software showing it or, is it version specific?
Cheers - Frank
Download shows 1.9 to 85° of rotation, which at the bottom end I dont think is a million miles out for my ST4s.
However do any of you really clever bods know of a way to change to Mv, Ive seen screen shots of the software showing it or, is it version specific?
Cheers - Frank
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t-ripple-ate
New member
Can anyone tell me in English when any of that means?? Confused. Com.
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Sorry about that!
Dont worry, just trying to check my Throttle Position Sensor and thinking about it, the only absolute way is measure directly with a voltmeter, so thats what I'll be doing...
All the fairings off. again
Dont worry, just trying to check my Throttle Position Sensor and thinking about it, the only absolute way is measure directly with a voltmeter, so thats what I'll be doing...
All the fairings off. again
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Thanks Derek, I worked out last night that mine is off from the link, and relationship you posted up from BikeBoy.
I posted on Ducati.ms too and Punch has replied the latest s/w version shows a TPS box that does indeed show Mv...
I posted on Ducati.ms too and Punch has replied the latest s/w version shows a TPS box that does indeed show Mv...
iconic944ss
Elite Member
SORRY! Thats a bit BIG, wasnt like that on .ms
I've also seen a YouTube video where a user measures voltage directly at the TPS, no-one mentions this in any writeup I've seen - any ideas how and is it not easier that striping down the ECU connector?
Cheers
I've also seen a YouTube video where a user measures voltage directly at the TPS, no-one mentions this in any writeup I've seen - any ideas how and is it not easier that striping down the ECU connector?
Cheers
Ah! I see you are using ScanST, the windows version. I use ScanM5X on Android. So not the same.
On the ST4s and other bikes requiring a mechanical set up of the TPS I have always measured the voltage at the TPS. Except on P7 and P8 ECUs where the connector is easily got into so it is easier to measure there.
If you pull back the rubber boot on the TPS connector you will see that there is a removable piece that you can take out to remove the pins. With this piece removed but the pins left in place it allows much easier access insert a probe. I've used straightened paper clips with the meter leads clipped to them. Measure between the Black/Violet (Sensor ground) and the Orange (TPS output). The other Brown/Violet wire is +5V from the ECU.
You'll know the drill:
Remove the throttle and fast idle cables from the throttle bodies. Pop off the throttle linkage between the horiz and vert throttle bodies. Back of the throttle stop until it is clear of the butterflies and make sure that the butterfly of the horiz TB is fully closed. Let it come to a stop lightly with the spring - don't press it closed.
With the meter connected loosen the screws holding the TPS and adjust it position for an output of 150mV ±mV (±2mV is better). This is extremely fiddly and can involve much cursing as it is very sensitive and the voltage changes as you tighten the screws.
Once you are happy that you've got a TPS voltage of 150mV with the screws tightened., screw the throttle stop back until you get the correct idle voltage of 423mv. Remove the probes and put the TPS connector back together. Reconnect the throttle body linkage and the cables. That should be it done.
On the ST4s and other bikes requiring a mechanical set up of the TPS I have always measured the voltage at the TPS. Except on P7 and P8 ECUs where the connector is easily got into so it is easier to measure there.
If you pull back the rubber boot on the TPS connector you will see that there is a removable piece that you can take out to remove the pins. With this piece removed but the pins left in place it allows much easier access insert a probe. I've used straightened paper clips with the meter leads clipped to them. Measure between the Black/Violet (Sensor ground) and the Orange (TPS output). The other Brown/Violet wire is +5V from the ECU.
You'll know the drill:
Remove the throttle and fast idle cables from the throttle bodies. Pop off the throttle linkage between the horiz and vert throttle bodies. Back of the throttle stop until it is clear of the butterflies and make sure that the butterfly of the horiz TB is fully closed. Let it come to a stop lightly with the spring - don't press it closed.
With the meter connected loosen the screws holding the TPS and adjust it position for an output of 150mV ±mV (±2mV is better). This is extremely fiddly and can involve much cursing as it is very sensitive and the voltage changes as you tighten the screws.
Once you are happy that you've got a TPS voltage of 150mV with the screws tightened., screw the throttle stop back until you get the correct idle voltage of 423mv. Remove the probes and put the TPS connector back together. Reconnect the throttle body linkage and the cables. That should be it done.
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Many Thanks for the procedure Derek.
Had a dry run today, multimeter died on me sadly, so had to go and get another as I still cant get my laptop software to display Mv correctly.
Getting to the TPS pins worked great and just using some tiny new bolts slid alongside the connector tails worked fine for me even if I was getting 320Mv at ignition on!
Sadly, that was to be the least of my problems. I slackened off the forward TPS holding bolt but when I tried to undo the rear despite using spray the head sheared off leaving a tiny stub behind
I couldnt even get in try and remove the stub so had SUCH FUN removing the airbox for the first time. Bellmouths seized on and front mounting bolt being totally inaccessible being worst but tipping the fuel tank completely allowed me to leave the ignition barrel assembly in place, which was a nice surprise.
To cut an hours long segment, short, with much release spray and tiny movements of my best quality grips, I managed to remove the broken stub completely. I think its only an M5 bolt, I have lots of Stainless cap bolts that would work but I'm thinking of tapping it out to next size as there is lots of material to do so...
We'll see, hands are bloody aching and still not even started what I set out to do.
We live and learn.
Cheers - Frank
Had a dry run today, multimeter died on me sadly, so had to go and get another as I still cant get my laptop software to display Mv correctly.
Getting to the TPS pins worked great and just using some tiny new bolts slid alongside the connector tails worked fine for me even if I was getting 320Mv at ignition on!
Sadly, that was to be the least of my problems. I slackened off the forward TPS holding bolt but when I tried to undo the rear despite using spray the head sheared off leaving a tiny stub behind
I couldnt even get in try and remove the stub so had SUCH FUN removing the airbox for the first time. Bellmouths seized on and front mounting bolt being totally inaccessible being worst but tipping the fuel tank completely allowed me to leave the ignition barrel assembly in place, which was a nice surprise.
To cut an hours long segment, short, with much release spray and tiny movements of my best quality grips, I managed to remove the broken stub completely. I think its only an M5 bolt, I have lots of Stainless cap bolts that would work but I'm thinking of tapping it out to next size as there is lots of material to do so...
We'll see, hands are bloody aching and still not even started what I set out to do.
We live and learn.
Cheers - Frank
Well done Frank, you're getting there. 
Getting the airbox off can be a right pig, with the bellmouths invariably stuck and you can't get a proper grip on the front one. I've sometimes used a small strap wrench around the front one to get it to turn. Then there is that screw at the front right behind the radiator
Here are a couple of tips when for when you are putting it back together. Make sure the bellmouths and their seat in the throttle bodies are scrupulously clean and put a smear of Vaseline around the o-rings.
For the screw at the front find a short M6 allen head screw and fit it to the airbox before putting the airbox in place. Push out the metal bush from the rubber mount that the screw normally goes through. You will find that when the airbox is put in place that the rubber mount becomes a socket for the head of the allen screw to fit into. The airbox is held down by the bellmouths and the 2 long screws into the frame at the rear and the screw at the front acts as a peg preventing fore and aft movement.
Stainless cap screws would be a good idea for the TPS but I think I'd leave them at M5. Will a 6mm shank go through the TPS slots?
I've never had to remove an ignition barrel
Getting the airbox off can be a right pig, with the bellmouths invariably stuck and you can't get a proper grip on the front one. I've sometimes used a small strap wrench around the front one to get it to turn. Then there is that screw at the front right behind the radiator
Here are a couple of tips when for when you are putting it back together. Make sure the bellmouths and their seat in the throttle bodies are scrupulously clean and put a smear of Vaseline around the o-rings.
For the screw at the front find a short M6 allen head screw and fit it to the airbox before putting the airbox in place. Push out the metal bush from the rubber mount that the screw normally goes through. You will find that when the airbox is put in place that the rubber mount becomes a socket for the head of the allen screw to fit into. The airbox is held down by the bellmouths and the 2 long screws into the frame at the rear and the screw at the front acts as a peg preventing fore and aft movement.
Stainless cap screws would be a good idea for the TPS but I think I'd leave them at M5. Will a 6mm shank go through the TPS slots?
I've never had to remove an ignition barrel
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Thanks Derek,
Lazy morning, cant face the garage yet, very unusual for me to be so miffed with the bikes. Working on the ST would be so easy on the workbench but thats occupied!
When will I learn to only work on one bike at a time???
Spot on with all your comments Derek, I tapped the bellmouths off with a very long flat screwdriver, against the stop moulding that seats into the clips. As for the damned front airbox bolt, i took the metal and rubber shrouds off under the steering head to unseat the bolt, then found it easier removing it from within the engine 'compartment' on the other side of the radiator.
The WSM states to remove the ignition assembly oddly, glad I didnt have to.
Having slept on it, I'm going to leave trying to tap the bolt bodies out, the thread must be fine but the bolt thread was rusty with of course, not a drop of grease or anti-sieze in sight!!!
Well done with the Vaseline and cap head bolt ideas, both will be time (and stress) savers.
Think I owe you a wee dram the next time we meet
Lazy morning, cant face the garage yet, very unusual for me to be so miffed with the bikes. Working on the ST would be so easy on the workbench but thats occupied!
When will I learn to only work on one bike at a time???
Spot on with all your comments Derek, I tapped the bellmouths off with a very long flat screwdriver, against the stop moulding that seats into the clips. As for the damned front airbox bolt, i took the metal and rubber shrouds off under the steering head to unseat the bolt, then found it easier removing it from within the engine 'compartment' on the other side of the radiator.
The WSM states to remove the ignition assembly oddly, glad I didnt have to.
Having slept on it, I'm going to leave trying to tap the bolt bodies out, the thread must be fine but the bolt thread was rusty with of course, not a drop of grease or anti-sieze in sight!!!
Well done with the Vaseline and cap head bolt ideas, both will be time (and stress) savers.
Think I owe you a wee dram the next time we meet
iconic944ss
Elite Member
Only getting a few hours at a time in the garage and its slow going...
I've always had quite some 'sticktion' on the throttle coming off idle, for as long as I can remember now. I put it down to the return springs coming into play.
Disconnecting everything except the throttle but putting all the slack back in, I could still feel some stiffness, that will teach me, disconnecting the throttle too revealed a kinked original cable that has not done too bad after 17 years.
Sadly, still something hindering the horizontal butterfly, it was the damn TPS itself. Took it off and the butterfly is flawless. Cleaning the TPS up as best I could and refitted - no better.
Took the TPS off again, filled the rotating assembly with ACF50 and tried easing it with an appropriate flat blade - came pretty good in time but not as light as I would of thought....
Managed to get the TPS set just under 150Mv but the voltage keeps drifting down with each butterfly operation. its drifting between 142 and 148 at present so, I'm thinking a new TPS is on the cards???
£70 inc postage is better than I expected....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-T...09-916-748-996-888-851-ST-Mst-S4/111674506881
I've always had quite some 'sticktion' on the throttle coming off idle, for as long as I can remember now. I put it down to the return springs coming into play.
Disconnecting everything except the throttle but putting all the slack back in, I could still feel some stiffness, that will teach me, disconnecting the throttle too revealed a kinked original cable that has not done too bad after 17 years.
Sadly, still something hindering the horizontal butterfly, it was the damn TPS itself. Took it off and the butterfly is flawless. Cleaning the TPS up as best I could and refitted - no better.
Took the TPS off again, filled the rotating assembly with ACF50 and tried easing it with an appropriate flat blade - came pretty good in time but not as light as I would of thought....
Managed to get the TPS set just under 150Mv but the voltage keeps drifting down with each butterfly operation. its drifting between 142 and 148 at present so, I'm thinking a new TPS is on the cards???
£70 inc postage is better than I expected....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-T...09-916-748-996-888-851-ST-Mst-S4/111674506881
Punch
New member
Hey - all I did was answer a question about mV showing in the software, not that the software could be used to set the TPS.
I have read the using a multimeter is the way to go, not software, for models that require manual adjustment of the TPS.
No experience in setting TPS as mine is fine.
I have read the using a multimeter is the way to go, not software, for models that require manual adjustment of the TPS.
No experience in setting TPS as mine is fine.
The thing about the belts I was told to set them so that you cannot twist the belt more than 45 deg between your fingers on the longest run for each cylinder,must work ,I have done this for 10 years on my ST3,I had difficulty setting them via the sound method,do not know how many models you can do that with though
45 degree twist is standard old school method and works fine (90 degrees on a car due to longer run) there are many ways to set the tension so whatever you are comfortable with. I use twist initially and check Hz with Gates app (which is tricky to get repeatability)
Aye, initially 45 degrees and then Hz reading with guitar tuning app.45 degree twist is standard old school method and works fine (90 degrees on a car due to longer run) there are many ways to set the tension so whatever you are comfortable with. I use twist initially and check Hz with Gates app (which is tricky to get repeatability)
As our Barry says repeatable readings are not an exact science but within tolerance