Clutch lever binding 1000ds

[datboi]

“2003 1000DS, the clutch suddenly became stiff and feels like it’s binding. I noticed that in neutral, when I pull the lever, the pressure plate stops immediately (normally, if you pull the clutch in neutral, the pressure plate separates from the pack and keeps spinning on its own for a few seconds).

This makes me think it could be the pressure plate bearing.

I removed the pressure plate, but the bearing spins freely and doesn’t seem to have any play.

Clutch basket and plate pack have about 3000 km on them.

With the engine off, there’s no issue. Master cylinder at the lever and the slave cylinder down below feel good with no binding with engine off...

 

[datboi]

needle bearing fell apart... what else should i replace it while i'm at it as preventive maintanance?

 

[datboi]

how do i press it back in?

 

[Exige]

What needle roller fell apart?

 

[chrisw]

Think he means the bearing on the end of the push rod that fits into the clutch pressure end plate. 14 in the above. Not a needle bearing.

A common failure that causes heat to transfer to the clutch slave pressure cylinder because the push rod is spinning.

 

[Exige]

Think he means the bearing on the end of the push rod that fits into the clutch pressure end plate. 14 in the above. Not a needle bearing.

A common failure that causes heat to transfer to the clutch slave pressure cylinder because the push rod is spinning.

Ah, I include these with some of my belt kits and this is the note from my shop for the 900SS kit


We added the Clutch Bearing to this set as they are also often neglected - note: the clutch bearing is not a C3 spec as some sell for this application as it is wrong! The correct Clutch Bearing has tighter tolerances due to it's cooler running environment unlike the C3 spec which needs heat to expand to its intended operating tolerances.

 

[datboi]

What needle roller fell apart?


View attachment 162677

View attachment 162678

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[datboi]

Think he means the bearing on the end of the push rod that fits into the clutch pressure end plate. 14 in the above. Not a needle bearing.

A common failure that causes heat to transfer to the clutch slave pressure cylinder because the push rod is spinning.

so: here is what i'm buying, anything else?

new pushrod (mine's fucked from the bearing breaking)
needle bearing and oring (n.30)
2 orings on the pushrod
oring on the slave cylinder
oring on the drum while i'm at it

anything else?

bearing on pressure plate feels good, and it's aftermarket (no idea how many km it has, bike has 55k overall) the pressure plate is a high quality alluminium one.

should i bother replacing that bearing if it feels good?

btw i think the needle bearing broke because last time i did my clutch 5000km ago i might've not pressed in the oring that covers it good enough causing friction material to leak in

 

[Dullard]

Sounds stupid, but have you checked that the switchgear on the handlebar is not fouling the lever… don’t ask how I know

 

[datboi]

Ah, I include these with some of my belt kits and this is the note from my shop for the 900SS kit


We added the Clutch Bearing to this set as they are also often neglected - note: the clutch bearing is not a C3 spec as some sell for this application as it is wrong! The correct Clutch Bearing has tighter tolerances due to it's cooler running environment unlike the C3 spec which needs heat to expand to its intended operating tolerances.

what is the oring n. 26??? i don't have it? is it possible becuase my plate is not original? there is a bearign in the pressure plate, the "hat" on which the rod slides into, and that's it, no oring.

 

[datboi]

.....

 

[datboi]

my pushrod also doesn't have this pin, i ordered a OEM pushrod from ducati for my 2003 year. but this one is different, likely for newer models.

that pin should slot into the slave cylinder correct? there should be a notch? mine doesn't have it

 

[Exige]

my pushrod also doesn't have this pin, i ordered a OEM pushrod from ducati for my 2003 year. but this one is different, likely for newer models.

that pin should slot into the slave cylinder correct? there should be a notch? mine doesn't have it

From th internet:


Some Ducati clutch pushrods feature a small pin—often called an anti-rotation pin—to prevent the pushrod from spinning along with the clutch pressure plate, which can cause wear. [1, 2]
This design feature was introduced by Ducati around 2010 to prevent premature failure of the O-rings on the rod, which can lead to oil leaks. [1, 2]

Key Reasons for the Pin

• Preventing Rotation: On many Ducati models, the clutch pushrod spins at the same speed as the engine/clutch assembly. The pin engages in a slot in the Oberon clutch slave cylinder (or OEM slave), forcing the rod to remain stationary.
• Protecting Seals: If the rod spins freely, it can damage the seals (O-rings) on the rod itself, leading to oil escaping from the clutch slave side.
• Reducing Wear: It prevents the pushrod from spinning within the needle bearing/bearing hat on the clutch pressure plate side, reducing frictional wear on those components. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Compatibility and Installation

• Slave Cylinder Slots: The pinned rod must be used with a clutch slave cylinder that has the matching slots to accommodate it.
• Removing the Pin: If you have an older or aftermarket slave cylinder without the slot, the pin can usually be removed to make the rod fit.
• Stuck Rods: Often, the pushrod becomes stuck to the bearing hat on the pressure plate side. If the rod cannot be removed from the slave side, the pressure plate must be removed to free it. [1, 2, 3, 4]

The pinned rods are common in later-model dry-clutch Ducatis (like the 1198/1098), but many aftermarket Ducabike or OEM replacement rods come with the pin, ensuring compatibility with updated systems.

 

[datboi]

From th internet:


Some Ducati clutch pushrods feature a small pin—often called an anti-rotation pin—to prevent the pushrod from spinning along with the clutch pressure plate, which can cause wear. [1, 2]
This design feature was introduced by Ducati around 2010 to prevent premature failure of the O-rings on the rod, which can lead to oil leaks. [1, 2]

Key Reasons for the Pin

• Preventing Rotation: On many Ducati models, the clutch pushrod spins at the same speed as the engine/clutch assembly. The pin engages in a slot in the Oberon clutch slave cylinder (or OEM slave), forcing the rod to remain stationary.
• Protecting Seals: If the rod spins freely, it can damage the seals (O-rings) on the rod itself, leading to oil escaping from the clutch slave side.
• Reducing Wear: It prevents the pushrod from spinning within the needle bearing/bearing hat on the clutch pressure plate side, reducing frictional wear on those components. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Compatibility and Installation

• Slave Cylinder Slots: The pinned rod must be used with a clutch slave cylinder that has the matching slots to accommodate it.
• Removing the Pin: If you have an older or aftermarket slave cylinder without the slot, the pin can usually be removed to make the rod fit.
• Stuck Rods: Often, the pushrod becomes stuck to the bearing hat on the pressure plate side. If the rod cannot be removed from the slave side, the pressure plate must be removed to free it. [1, 2, 3, 4]

The pinned rods are common in later-model dry-clutch Ducatis (like the 1198/1098), but many aftermarket Ducabike or OEM replacement rods come with the pin, ensuring compatibility with updated systems.

yep that's what i read from gemini too - weird they send me this despite selecting 2003 year....

hopefully the pin is easy to remove, it seems quite stuck. maybe heat gun, wd 40, and try to hammer it out gently?

 

[Exige]

yep that's what i read from gemini too - weird they send me this despite selecting 2003 year....

hopefully the pin is easy to remove, it seems quite stuck. maybe heat gun, wd 40, and try to hammer it out gently?

That’s all they manufacture after upgrading I guess