Project SS

Stewart, forgive me re engine repaint.....but.....is the front tyre on the wrong way round??:eek: The bike is looking fantastic mate...:D
 
Bruce,
Tyre/wheel IS on correct way round according to the rotational arrow on the tyre.
I thought we checked this when putting it on but compared to other matters it was minor.
 
Having gone to the bother of replacing things like various bearings it seemed sensible to not rely on 20 year old Italian electrics and decided to get a loom made specifically for the bike and to include the new all in one speedo/rev counter/neutral light etc.

Spoke with the club's resident techie guru and master of the dark art of electrics and Derek took on the job happily and made a fantastic job.
I got ongoing reports and photos on a daily basis and at the end a bespoke wiring diagram to enable me to deal with any future issues. Yeah right...any future issues I will give the bike and diagram back to Derek to sort. Sincere thanks Derek!
 
Having gone to the bother of replacing things like various bearings it seemed sensible to not rely on 20 year old Italian electrics and decided to get a loom made specifically for the bike and to include the new all in one speedo/rev counter/neutral light etc.

Spoke with the club's resident techie guru and master of the dark art of electrics and Derek took on the job happily and made a fantastic job.
I got ongoing reports and photos on a daily basis and at the end a bespoke wiring diagram to enable me to deal with any future issues. Yeah right...any future issues I will give the bike and diagram back to Derek to sort. Sincere thanks Derek!
Here Stewart, you might have shown some pictures with the wiring in a slightly more finished state - these ones have got coloured spagetti everywhere :D

Here's one with it a bit more finished -
IMG_0354.JPG

There wasn't much space for all these connectors :scratchhead:
 
What is the recommended connector (from Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue) for alternator -> reg/rec wires, also wire size/type (nice thick insulation) for replacing a section? 'Spurt is partially hard wired which is a bonus as far as any issues with corrosion/increased resiatnce at the connectors but not sure that removing the whole loom when the engine has to come out is all that practical for the future.
 
Here Stewart, you might have shown some pictures with the wiring in a slightly more finished state - these ones have got coloured spagetti everywhere :D

Here's one with it a bit more finished -
[qimg]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kLRUyVpCyEk/TcVnTKAibDI/AAAAAAAABiU/gMIc0lclDXA/IMG_0354.JPG[/qimg]
There wasn't much space for all these connectors :scratchhead:

Sorry Derek,
I have different photos stored on different computers and I must try and pull everything under the one file. :o
 
What is the recommended connector (from Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue) for alternator -> reg/rec wires, also wire size/type (nice thick insulation) for replacing a section? 'Spurt is partially hard wired which is a bonus as far as any issues with corrosion/increased resiatnce at the connectors but not sure that removing the whole loom when the engine has to come out is all that practical for the future.

Clearly you are not expecting me to know the answer to this?? :rolleyes:

Derek????...........
 
What is the recommended connector (from Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue) for alternator -> reg/rec wires, also wire size/type (nice thick insulation) for replacing a section? 'Spurt is partially hard wired which is a bonus as far as any issues with corrosion/increased resiatnce at the connectors but not sure that removing the whole loom when the engine has to come out is all that practical for the future.
Scroll down this page until you come to Powerpole Connectors. Assemble them with 45A terminals and buy a few spare because they are easy to mess up. For a single-phase alternator you will need 8 housings (2 grey for the AC input and one red and one black for the DC output) and 8 terminals.
 
Scroll down this page until you come to Powerpole Connectors. Assemble them with 45A terminals and buy a few spare because they are easy to mess up. For a single-phase alternator you will need 8 housings (2 grey for the AC input and one red and one black for the DC output) and 8 terminals.

I knew that really! :rolleyes:
 
... For a single-phase alternator you will need 8 housings (2 grey for the AC input and one red and one black for the DC output) and 8 terminals.
Bollocks! I'm havering :banghead:
You will need 8 housings right enough - 4 grey, 2 red and 2 black.
The connectors are a universal fitment, there is no male part and no female part. Hermaphrodite? :scratchhead:
 
Scroll down this page until you come to Powerpole Connectors. Assemble them with 45A terminals and buy a few spare because they are easy to mess up. For a single-phase alternator you will need 8 housings (2 grey for the AC input and one red and one black for the DC output) and 8 terminals.

Derek - aware the ID of the sealing bush will be the limiting factor, but what size cable do you recommend (as stocked by VWP would be ideal but don't worry if not)
 
Given that the full 350W is output by the alternator all the time it's no wonder that the OEM cables and connectors melt. At 12V that's over 29A. I'd suggest that you use at least 4mm sq cable. Rather than go for a twin core cable which is less likely to stand the current in the sizes readily available, you'd be better to use 2 individual cables and put them in a sleeve. Something like VWP's Thinwall Cable Ref 39. 56/0.30mm, 4mm2, 39amp.
 
Fantastic work, so impressed with the Alloy work you've had done. I thought the tank was best but the more I look at that fairing the more it seems like a piece of Art!

I'm thinking of getting a cleaner engine profile by mounting the oil cooler on top of the front head - might think on that a bit more.

More photo's pleeeze.
 
Fantastic work, so impressed with the Alloy work you've had done. I thought the tank was best but the more I look at that fairing the more it seems like a piece of Art!

I'm thinking of getting a cleaner engine profile by mounting the oil cooler on top of the front head - might think on that a bit more.

More photo's pleeeze.

Thanks. :)

I looked at swapping the cooler from the bottom to the top and then using Monster pipes to connect it up as I thought the cooler stuck out like a sore thumb with the modified bike. Pretty simple to move it.
Was then going to simply attach it to the bottom yoke so it would sit either just below or inside the fairing.
Eventually decided to ditch it completely as 750 motors were fitted with a cooler as an option originally and couldn't see the bike getting hammered or in a hot climate. (given where I live!! :lol2:)

If I fit a 900 motor I would probably try to move the cooler as high up the frame as possible to "lose" it.

Oddly enough the one bit of alloy that I had made that impressed me the most was the mudguard.
 
More good stuff!

I also have an Alloy front mudguard but it was a copy of the std SS item and I think I was the only one who liked it. Sadly the holes I drilled to mount it fractured between the bolt holes so I put the std guard back one - I note your mounting bolts are forward of the forks and IMHO look better.

Wrt th eoil cooler I remember a thread where someone bought a half-height cooler and mounted it underneath the headlight (inside the SS fairing), just food for thought.

Finally, there are a lovely pair of 39mm FCR's for sale in the N.E. via Ebay here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220941083301

I think these might work very well on your 750 ;)
 
I had thought of mounting in the fairing and maybe having either holes or slots in the fairing to allow air through similar to old race bikes.

NOT needing FCR's! (fingers in ears ....la la la............can't hear you....:p :lol2:)

Just had a look anyway....purely so I wasn't being rude you understand ;)....and accidentally clicked on "place in watch list". :)
 
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