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"Peanut" SL125, 1972/3 rebuild

Exige

Elite Member
Subscriber
I had to google that, and no, I am going to use a spray clear that I think is up to the job. Will let you know how good it is in 1-40yrs. YMMV!
You can get DTM (Direct To Metal) lacquer developed for alloy wheels on cars which is probably what you have? It's OK if your finish isn't mirror polished and just Scotchbrighted but still lifts if chipped. I was doing my Swing Arm in it but I'm now going for clear Cerekote I think :unsure:
 

Laava

Well-known member
Subscriber
Yep there is a few products available and maybe it boils down to, you get what you pay for.
That, and prep is key!...
 

Laava

Well-known member
Subscriber
Sandblasted engine casings today except for barrels. Just need to deep clean now and I can rebuild the bottom ends.
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Noobie

Elite Member
Subscriber
When you're trying to keep them clean say after sandblasting, have you tried them big ziplock bags?
 

West Cork Paul

Elite Member
Subscriber
I did them myself, only took about an hour but fiddly as you can imagine. Am going to hit the inside with some oven cleaner then a thorough wash out and immediately reassemble the bottom ends.
I’d be interested in seeing your sandblast set up and knowing more about it, eg, home built? off the shelf? etc. In fact I think @NOODS built something a few years back iirc. I don’t want to hijack this build thread so perhaps in a new thread? I’m sure there are others would be interested too.
 

Laava

Well-known member
Subscriber
I’d be interested in seeing your sandblast set up and knowing more about it, eg, home built? off the shelf? etc. In fact I think @NOODS built something a few years back iirc. I don’t want to hijack this build thread so perhaps in a new thread? I’m sure there are others would be interested too.
Right, so I have a freestanding blast cabinet which I currently have glass bead in. This is nowhere as abrasive, not even close, as carborundum or garnet. I have had the latter 2 in there as well.
And I have a cheap and cheerful, but effective, total loss setup which is basically a handpiece with a drawhose. Obvs this is messy but outside on our gravel driveway is perfect. Practice makes perfect and although I didn't, it would pay dividends to youtube the hell out of it. Also pays to have a good water trap for the compressor which falls into the category of, the bigger the better! Mine is mid size I guess?
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West Cork Paul

Elite Member
Subscriber
Right, so I have a freestanding blast cabinet which I currently have glass bead in. This is nowhere as abrasive, not even close, as carborundum or garnet. I have had the latter 2 in there as well.
And I have a cheap and cheerful, but effective, total loss setup which is basically a handpiece with a drawhose. Obvs this is messy but outside on our gravel driveway is perfect. Practice makes perfect and although I didn't, it would pay dividends to youtube the hell out of it. Also pays to have a good water trap for the compressor which falls into the category of, the bigger the better! Mine is mid size I guess?View attachment 30377View attachment 30378View attachment 30379
Am I right in thinking then the difference in pressure between the glass beads and air in the bucket and the fast moving air from the compressor as it exits the gun, causes the beads to be drawn up the black tubing above and then ejected with the air?
 

Laava

Well-known member
Subscriber
Am I right in thinking then the difference in pressure between the glass beads and air in the bucket and the fast moving air from the compressor as it exits the gun, causes the beads to be drawn up the black tubing above and then ejected with the air?
Correct, the venturi effect. So there are many variables involved. It is just practice to set it up right, or so it at least works!😀
 
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