loss of electrics,1098,2007

1098ray

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hi, just been out for a ride and left the bike outside my garage. tried to restart the bike and there is a delay at the clock/dash when i turn the key. then when i press the ignition button the dash/clock is switching itself off and the bike will not start. no error code is coming up ,which is strange. can you help/suggest what the fault is. cheers, ray.
 
hi, just been out for a ride and left the bike outside my garage. tried to restart the bike and there is a delay at the clock/dash when i turn the key. then when i press the ignition button the dash/clock is switching itself off and the bike will not start. no error code is coming up ,which is strange. can you help/suggest what the fault is. cheers, ray.
Battery would be my guess loose cable maybe
 
Battery would be my guess loose cable maybe

hi, just been out for a ride and left the bike outside my garage. tried to restart the bike and there is a delay at the clock/dash when i turn the key. then when i press the ignition button the dash/clock is switching itself off and the bike will not start. no error code is coming up ,which is strange. can you help/suggest what the fault is. cheers, ray.
STRANGE,checked battery and it was reading empty then i disconnected/reconnected it and its reading 12.4. the positive connector was a little dirty but nothing serious. the bike fired up ok. i never touched any other wiring,could it still be a problem with the rectifier.
 
STRANGE,checked battery and it was reading empty then i disconnected/reconnected it and its reading 12.4. the positive connector was a little dirty but nothing serious. the bike fired up ok. i never touched any other wiring,could it still be a problem with the rectifier.
If it's the original rectifyer I'd replace it regardless they always fail and could strand you in the future, don't go with an oem unit! IMHO
 
STRANGE,checked battery and it was reading empty then i disconnected/reconnected it and its reading 12.4. the positive connector was a little dirty but nothing serious. the bike fired up ok. i never touched any other wiring,could it still be a problem with the rectifier.
Worry some.... my offer is now upped by another box of corn snacks.... as I can see it running...
 
1. Clean all connections to/from the battery plus any other earths on the bike such as the ecu.

2. Check the battery voltage when off, should be damn near 13v on a new battery, certainly over 12.5

3. keep the multimeter attached to the battery and press the start button. Voltage should drop to no less than 11v momentarily then rise to 14v as the charging system kicks in.

If this happens then all is good. if the voltage drops below 11 on start the battery is no good. If the voltage doesn’t rise to 14 when running the r/r is no good (or the stator which supplies the r/r although that’s unlikely).

It will be a loose connection or a battery that’s dying is my tuppence worth.
 
1. Clean all connections to/from the battery plus any other earths on the bike such as the ecu.

2. Check the battery voltage when off, should be damn near 13v on a new battery, certainly over 12.5

3. keep the multimeter attached to the battery and press the start button. Voltage should drop to no less than 11v momentarily then rise to 14v as the charging system kicks in.

If this happens then all is good. if the voltage drops below 11 on start the battery is no good. If the voltage doesn’t rise to 14 when running the r/r is no good (or the stator which supplies the r/r although that’s unlikely).

It will be a loose connection or a battery that’s dying is my tuppence worth.
Pretty good advice, however if you are still concerned... five corn snacks (big boxes).... my final offer.
 
If it's the original rectifyer I'd replace it regardless they always fail and could strand you in the future, don't go with an oem unit! IMHO
the bikes rectifier was changed at 20k, its done 32k now. it was a recall for a heat shield to be fitted and new rectifier on all early 1098,s. cheers.
 
You can fit the later bigger battery to them too, my 1098R starts on the button with a larger Yuasa and cable kit - well, it did yesterday half a dozen times :)
 
1. Clean all connections to/from the battery plus any other earths on the bike such as the ecu.

2. Check the battery voltage when off, should be damn near 13v on a new battery, certainly over 12.5

3. keep the multimeter attached to the battery and press the start button. Voltage should drop to no less than 11v momentarily then rise to 14v as the charging system kicks in.

If this happens then all is good. if the voltage drops below 11 on start the battery is no good. If the voltage doesn’t rise to 14 when running the r/r is no good (or the stator which supplies the r/r although that’s unlikely).

It will be a loose connection or a battery that’s dying is my tuppence worth.
i tried all of the above and changed the battery with one of similar age. went out for a ride on sunday and stop/started 3 times and had no problems. the multimeter was at 11v just before firing and one of the connections on the positive was a little corroded. the rectifier should not be a problem as i have never read any bad press after they did a recall to fit a new one and fit a heat shield. cheers paul
 
i tried all of the above and changed the battery with one of similar age. went out for a ride on sunday and stop/started 3 times and had no problems. the multimeter was at 11v just before firing and one of the connections on the positive was a little corroded. the rectifier should not be a problem as i have never read any bad press after they did a recall to fit a new one and fit a heat shield. cheers paul
Duff original battery, sounds like
 
i tried all of the above and changed the battery with one of similar age. went out for a ride on sunday and stop/started 3 times and had no problems. the multimeter was at 11v just before firing and one of the connections on the positive was a little corroded. the rectifier should not be a problem as i have never read any bad press after they did a recall to fit a new one and fit a heat shield. cheers paul
I have a later 1098 that already had the heat shield the rectifier failed on that.
If you did a bit more searching you find a lot of info on failing reg/recs and the replacement with mosfet.
 
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