If the dashboard is diverted, the speed display will show 1.5 times the speed.

ryu_jpn

ryu_jpn

Member
Hi, nice to meet you.
I posted this because the dashboard eeprom analysis thread helped me before and I thought it might solve my current problem.

I am riding a Monster 400.
The dashboard broke so I got an S4R one for cheap and was able to turn off the immobilizer and start the engine.

But the speed display shows 1.5 times the speed by feel.
I believe it is due to the difference in tire size and sensor part (*1).
*1 The Monster has 6 brake disc mounting bolts, the S4R has 4.
Sorry if this is a misunderstanding.

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Is it possible to change the speed display to show the correct speed in the bin file on the dashboard?
I have attached the bin file disguised as a pdf.
 

Attachments

Exige said:
Replace 2 of the bolts with Titanium ones so they don’t trigger the sensor - then you will get 4 signals per revolution again 👀
Click to expand...
I see!
So I just need to change the material so it doesn't react to the sensor.
Thank you, I'll try that.
 
@ryu_jpn before buying the titanium bolts just remove 2 of the 6 bolts holding the brake rotor on and go for a short ride. The 4 remaining will still hold the rotor in place and in a short space of time you'll get a good idea whether its cured the issue or not. If it does, then use 2 x Titanium bolts as suggested, or, stainless bolts (306 or 316 grade) are also non-magnetic and may be easier (and cheaper) to obtain.

When removing the bolts I'd remove 2 opposite each other rather than next to each other, to try and even out the missed pulses.
 
West Cork Paul said:
@ryu_jpn before buying the titanium bolts just remove 2 of the 6 bolts holding the brake rotor on and go for a short ride. The 4 remaining will still hold the rotor in place and in a short space of time you'll get a good idea whether its cured the issue or not. If it does, then use 2 x Titanium bolts as suggested, or, stainless bolts (306 or 316 grade) are also non-magnetic and may be easier (and cheaper) to obtain.

When removing the bolts I'd remove 2 opposite each other rather than next to each other, to try and even out the missed pulses.
Click to expand...
Certainly, if the sensor reacts to the brake rotor and not the bolt, it's pointless.
I'll try it today.
Thanks.
 
By the way, when I was looking at the ECU data, I saw an item called [speedo correction].
* I'm not good at English, so I noticed it late.

Do you have any information about this value?
Does increasing it make it slower? Or faster?

If there is no information available, I will try making changes based on my intuition and report the results here.

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ryu_jpn said:
Certainly, if the sensor reacts to the brake rotor and not the bolt, it's pointless.
I'll try it today.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
The sensor reacts to the steel bolts passing underneath it. Its a Hall sensor so each time something steel passes under it (within a prescribed distance from the face of the sensor) it generates an electronic pulse.
ryu_jpn said:
By the way, when I was looking at the ECU data, I saw an item called [speedo correction].
* I'm not good at English, so I noticed it late.

Do you have any information about this value?
Does increasing it make it slower? Or faster?

If there is no information available, I will try making changes based on my intuition and report the results here.

View attachment 122956
Click to expand...
Can't help with that but it seems a logical thought, there's only one way to find out.
 
Derek said:
I'm wondering how it will behave with the uneven spaces between the pulses? For every revolution of the wheel there will be one long space, followed by a short space, a long space, then another short space.
Click to expand...
Agreed.

My own inexpert opinion is that the signals will be erratic and lead to nonsense on the speedo dial.

The evenly spaced bolts must in some way provide data sufficient for averaging the time between pulses in order to provide a reasonable value for speed, but the extra gap of the missing pulses might push the data outside of acceptable parameters.

TL;DR - you won't know until you try!
 
Another possible solution, but not cheap
www.averys-motorcycles.com

Speedo Healer V4 - Ducati

The most popular speedo and odo calibrator from Healtech Electronics No matter what sprockets or tire size you use, the SpeedoHealer v4 will deliver precise readings to your meters. Don't let uncalibrated readings ruin your fun and degrade your bike's resale value. Get your fix today! On most...
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I will soon do a verification to compare with the speedometer app with the bolt removed.
But I can't go fast, so it will be an experiment at low speed.

I would like to take a video, but it may be difficult since there is nothing to fix it.

I will officially try to change the “speedo correction” of the ECU.
 
I just tried it.
To cut to the chase, removing the rotor bolt displayed the desired speed and the meter moved normally.
The speed displayed is slower by the amount that the rotor bolt was removed.
It's a little faster than the GPS speedometer, but I think that's within the original error level.

Video has been uploaded here.

Changed speedo correction.MOV

drive.google.com drive.google.com


I also tried changing the ECU's speedo correction.
I lowered it from 1542 to 1000, but I didn't notice any change.
Next time I'll try raising it significantly and testing it again.
 
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