Bike has been stored in a dry shed under a soft cover and has these sort of marks in some places.
What’s best to clean it off ?
Best product to clean this.
- Thread starter Alan Williams
- Start date
Bike has been stored in a dry shed under a soft cover and has these sort of marks in some places.
What’s best to clean it off ?
Have you thought about Solvol Autosol?
I use it to polish bits of alloy when the runes are in Jupiter (not very often)
I use it to polish bits of alloy when the runes are in Jupiter (not very often)
Autosol on the metal bits and WD40 is good for the painted bit then a polish with Mr Sheen, i use it all the time.
Flamethrower seems like the quickest way. 
Will try autosol, wd40 gunk etc and see what it’s like after.
Hoping it doesn’t need a repaint, I’m shit at that.
Will try autosol, wd40 gunk etc and see what it’s like after.
Hoping it doesn’t need a repaint, I’m shit at that.
I find that if things need spray painting the go too is matt you can't go wrong and a clear light laquer. Over the years of painting and i'm no painting god believe me matt paint you can take liberties with.Flamethrower seems like the quickest way.
Will try autosol, wd40 gunk etc and see what it’s like after.
Hoping it doesn’t need a repaint, I’m shit at that.
I’d still make an arse of it.
Be sure to post pics!!!!I’d still make an arse of it.
I wouldn't waste time on it because;
You are trying to get swmbo back riding, the less delay the better.
Ride it for the summer and if she feels yep, definately for her then get it taken care of in the winter
If she says I tried but not for me anymore, then sell as it is.
Get the bike running, safe and presentable and see where it goes.
You are trying to get swmbo back riding, the less delay the better.
Ride it for the summer and if she feels yep, definately for her then get it taken care of in the winter
If she says I tried but not for me anymore, then sell as it is.
Get the bike running, safe and presentable and see where it goes.
That’s corrosion under the lacquer and the paint 
. It won’t be cleaned off, really needs to be stripped, treated and reapplied. However, as a stop gap, and to prevent it getting worse, put some AC50 on a microfibre cloth and give it a good rub. It’s actually quite effective.
. It won’t be cleaned off, really needs to be stripped, treated and reapplied. However, as a stop gap, and to prevent it getting worse, put some AC50 on a microfibre cloth and give it a good rub. It’s actually quite effective.
Does this work on people that are bold and need a quick shine?That’s corrosion under the lacquer and the paint
Is he being bold rubbing that bald mans head
Dunno!!Is he being bold rubbing that bald mans head
Jon Benton
Active member
shed AND under a cover will probably promote corrosion, especially if the cover is one of those fancy shmancy versions, they effectively make the bike sweat as it warms up and cools down, the cover keeps the moisture in, ends up causing damage.
If you remove paint, use an etch primer, not a primer before topcoat, etch will stop it happening again, primer will not.
I’d also investigate Cerakote products, you might have an answer to a suitable paint.
The stainless steel panel that’s tarnished confirms it’s in or has been in an aggressive environment
If you remove paint, use an etch primer, not a primer before topcoat, etch will stop it happening again, primer will not.
I’d also investigate Cerakote products, you might have an answer to a suitable paint.
The stainless steel panel that’s tarnished confirms it’s in or has been in an aggressive environment